Number 1
Choose the right wave! Sounds simple but not every wave is perfect. Look for a “peaky one”. Not to steep not to rolling. Position yourself in the right spot and look for an open wave, not a close out. A close out will be one long line of equal height along the it. Close-out
Open wave
Number 2
Paddle at least 3 more times than you think you should. Drop your chin towards the board and dig deep, those 3 extra paddles are almost always needed to catch the wave.
Paddle with your chin towards the board = more weight forward
Number 3
Look in the direction you want to go, do not look down. When we are surfing where you look is where you go. So please look down the line. Trust your feet will land in the right spot and keep your gaze on the unbroken part of the wave.
